Fortress of the Bears

Photo by Jon Wilson

The native Tinglit people called the area “Kootznoowoo”, meaning fortress of the bears. They knew that the bears out numbered them and on this island they roamed freely and unafraid. Today we call the area Admiralty Island and it is still home to the largest concentration of brown bears in North America. Unchanged and unspoiled, the bears travel the same trails and forage for food in the same creek as their ancestors before them. A uniquely Alaskan experience awaits travels who decide to walk in the shadow of the bears.

Set in the middle of the Tongass National Forest, Admiralty Island is a 30 minute flight or several hour boat ride south of Juneau. The island is 90 miles long, 35 miles wide, and home to over 1800 bears. The area is a rich, temperate rainforest with soft mountain slopes, wide open meadows and tidal flat creeks and beaches, making it an ideal and food dense area for the bears. In the center of the island is the Pack Creek Wildlife Viewing area operated by the United States Forest Service. About eight people can fit in the elevated tower while bears meander below. There are several trails to Pack Creek, including a path from the shoreline and a moderate one through old growth rainforest. Permits are required by the USFS and there are no facilities, including bathrooms or cell phone towers. Visitors are greeted by a USFS ranger who provides guidance and instruction, as well as island rules. This area receives an abundance of rain and the appropriate gear is recommended, as well as high boots due to the mud. There is no camping on the island, however a short distance away is Windfall Island that has facilities.

Flight seeing companies operate out of Juneau, with many providing gear and a naturalist to guide you while on the island. Their experience with the island and with bears is an invaluable resource. Mornings and low tides are the best time to view the bears. Admiralty Island/Pack Creek Wildlife Viewing is an outstanding place to capture photographs of brown bears, eagles, and even whales as they navigate the channels around the island.

Stan Price, known as The Bear Man of Pack Creek, summed up Admiralty Island best when he said, “I can't say what a bear's worth. I can't say what a bear's good for. But I know they were here before we were.” Step into the fortress of the bears and step back to a simpler time when these great creatures ruled the forests of southeast Alaska.